Nanjing Brocade, a traditional handicraft with over 1,500 years of history, is one of the few ancient Chinese arts that has survived through millennia without being replaced by modern machinery. It stands as a unique symbol of China’s rich cultural heritage and represents the pinnacle of ancient weaving technology. The art of Nanjing Brocade has evolved in parallel with the development of Chinese civilization, showcasing the ingenuity and creativity of ancient artisans.
This intricate craft involves complex techniques such as "through-the-break-weft" and "dug platen," which are used in the construction of large looms operated manually by two weavers. The fabric is woven using silk, gold threads, and even peacock feathers, often used for royal garments and luxurious textiles. These techniques have been preserved mainly in Nanjing, Jiangsu Province, and involve over 120 processes, from machine-making to design and weaving.
Recognized by UNESCO on December 30, 2009, as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, Nanjing Brocade has deep historical roots. Its origins can be traced back to the Zhou Dynasty (1066–771 BC), when colorful brocades first appeared. During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods (403–221 BC), brocade production flourished. By the Northern and Southern Dynasties (AD 420–589), skilled craftsmen refined loom technology and improved weaving methods, elevating the quality and output of brocade.
In the early years of the Eastern Jin Dynasty (5th century AD), Nanjing established a specialized agency for brocade production. Historical records mention that the Southern Dynasties had government-controlled textile industries, and Nanjing's brocade workers were renowned worldwide. The "Yin Yun Novel" describes the legendary story of the weaver girl, highlighting the skill and artistry behind brocade.
Throughout the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties, Nanjing's status fluctuated, but it eventually became a major silk center again during the Southern Tang Dynasty. Under the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, official weaving institutions played a central role in the production of high-quality brocade, especially in Nanjing, Suzhou, and Hangzhou.
By the Qing Dynasty, Nanjing Brocade reached its peak, with over 30,000 looms and more than 200,000 people employed in the industry. However, after the abolition of the Jiangning Weaving Bureau in 1904, the craft faced decline. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, efforts were made to revive the tradition, leading to the establishment of the Nanjing Yunjin Institute in 1957.
Today, Nanjing Brocade remains a living fossil of ancient weaving technology. Its most famous loom, the Cloud-Flower Loom, is still used today, with its complex mechanisms and manual operation making it impossible for modern machines to fully replace. The weaving process includes techniques like "woven into," where patterns are designed and woven directly onto the fabric, creating seamless garments for emperors.
The art also features "pick the knot," a method recorded in the Ming Dynasty text *Tian Gong Kai Wu*, which influenced later jacquard technology. This technique not only shaped Chinese textile traditions but also inspired innovations in Western weaving, including the Jacquard loom. Even modern computers owe their binary logic to the principles embedded in Nanjing Brocade's ancient weaving methods.
At the 2010 Shanghai World Expo, the "China Nanjing Brocade Global Forum" highlighted the significance of Nanjing Brocade, confirming its role as the origin of the binary system used in modern computing. With its profound cultural and technological legacy, Nanjing Brocade continues to shine as a testament to the brilliance of Chinese craftsmanship and the enduring spirit of innovation.
Oxford Stripe Fabric,Oxford Striped Awning Fabric,Stripe Check Oxford Fabric,Yarn Dyed Oxford Stripe Fabric
Shaoxing Yingcheng Textile Co.,Ltd , https://www.sxyingcheng.com