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Well, the spring patterns have all gone out for testing, so I finally have a moment to breathe and get started on the next batch of Liesl + Co. patterns. In the meantime, here are a few more of your straightforward questions. Next week, I hope to dive into some of the deeper sewing and technique topics you've been asking about, so stay tuned!
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**What does your sewing setup look like at home?**
We have a fairly spacious (for New York standards) closet that we turned into a tiny nursery when S was born. Once she outgrew it, we transformed it into a small sewing studio that also functions as S’s closet, storage for my sketchbooks and important files, and a spot to keep projects I haven’t had time to finish yet. You probably have a similar space in your house, right? Maybe a corner or a basement? Here’s a picture.
Small, isn’t it? Of course, I don’t cut fabric in my workroom. But surprisingly, I manage to get a lot done there! This weekend, I plan to use it to catch up on some personal sewing projects. Right now, there’s a Pinwheel Dress for S waiting at my sewing machine, and I just cut out an Everyday Skirt for an upcoming holiday party.
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**Are there any sewing books you'd recommend for someone looking to move from an advanced beginner to an advanced level?**
Oh, I should definitely put together a list for you! I'll do that soon. For now, if you're aiming to improve your sewing skills, I recommend checking out the older editions of the Reader’s Digest sewing book. The older the better—there’s usually more detailed information in those. Anything by Claire Shaeffer is fantastic. I could read her books over and over again—they're pure gold. As you gain more skills and confidence, I absolutely adore *Threads* magazine. It can be a bit overwhelming at first, especially for beginners, but it's still a great resource to learn from. The magazine can sometimes be a bit too technical for my taste, especially the super in-depth discussions. However, those can easily overwhelm beginners, so don’t let that discourage you. Sewing doesn’t need to be overly complex unless you want it to be. My mom gifted me a subscription when I graduated college, and it taught me a ton about sewing long before I took any classes or went to school.
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**Do you have a favorite pattern or fabric you’ve designed?**
Typically, my favorite pattern is the one I’ve just completed! (Maybe that’s because it’s finally done?) Honestly, it’s tough to pick just one. They’re all my little babies, and I love them all equally. I’m particularly proud of some of our more technical patterns, like the Jump Rope Dress, Secret Agent Trench Coat, and School Photo Dress. I thrive on challenges, and designing and writing patterns while teaching techniques through them is the ultimate challenge.
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**What’s your favorite thing to sew?**
Clothing! I absolutely adore sewing clothing. Tailored details are my absolute favorite—plackets, darts, notched collars, collar stands, you name it. I love a good challenge! At the same time, I also enjoy quick, satisfying projects as long as they’re top-notch. I’m not a fan of garments that only get worn once.
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**Do you ever make bags, quilts, or crafty items, or do you stick mainly to clothing?**
I’ve designed plenty of bags and quilts, and they’re certainly fun and easier than designing and grading clothing. However, I find clothing offers the most variety and challenge (in a good way), which keeps me interested more than other sewable items. Home decor pieces like curtains and slipcovers? Not so much. I find them boring. That’s why our old chair still doesn’t have a slipcover.
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**What’s your favorite type of fabric to sew with?**
It depends entirely on what I’m making. But I do love wool crepe—it has such a beautiful drape and feel! Other favorites include chambray, lawn, canvas, wool suiting, silk faille, silk matka, and pretty much any kind of linen.
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**Does S ever give you design suggestions?**
Oh, yes! Here are some sketches from S and her friends a little while back. I regularly receive submissions from the third-grade set.
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**Since S gets to ‘sample’ before a pattern is released, has she ever given feedback on fit or comfort that led to a last-minute design change?**
I try my best to avoid last-minute changes because they open the door for potential errors. So while they do happen occasionally, most adjustments come from feedback from our testers. S has strong opinions about what she likes, though, and right now she’s not a fan of empire waists. I still design them, but she’s not obligated to wear anything I make, for that matter. I run ideas by her before sewing for her because I want her to have a say in what she wears.
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**S was your inspiration for starting Oliver + S. Will you continue designing for children once she outgrows the Oliver + S designs?**
I think so! I have to admit, children’s clothing patterns are far more challenging to develop than women’s patterns. The grading process is incredibly demanding. I enjoy a good challenge, and now that we’re working on some women’s clothing patterns, I genuinely enjoy the diversity of the work. I’d also like to squeeze in another fabric collection or two in the near future!
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**Why do many patterns require us to sew a 1/2†seam allowance only to trim it down to 1/4†afterward? Why don’t patterns just use a 1/4†seam allowance to begin with?**
In the industry, seam allowances are rarely trimmed and are sewn to their final width from the start. In the home sewing world, not everyone reads the instructions carefully. A wider seam allowance can be easier to handle and reduces the chances of mistakes. That’s why patterns often use a standard seam allowance that gets trimmed down as needed.
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**As a mom, business owner, and designer, what do you enjoy doing for fun?**
Sleep? Just kidding! Honestly, I love to read, and I enjoy a variety of crafts like sewing, knitting, and making things with my kid. We also make the most of everything our city has to offer—museums, restaurants, ice skating, libraries, playgrounds, and exploring our great city. I hope to have time for more hobbies like weaving when I’m older and have fewer demands on my time. But I truly enjoy what I do, and I’m grateful to be able to turn my passion into a career. And yes, I absolutely love to sew.
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Hope this helps! Let me know if you’d like further tweaks.
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